I arrived in Split at 6 am, and given my sleeping conditions, I was feeling unusually refreshed. Since Split has neither hostels nor decent budget hotels, virtually the only option for a room is a homestay with a Croatian family. Little old ladies patrol the streets (not unlike congenial predators) looking for backpackers in need of a "sleepy place".
Somehow my absolute loathing for negotiation worked to my advantage, and I found a place that was in a good location and reasonably priced. The little old lady I stayed with had a tendency to exclaim "American Girl" and grab/pat/rub my arm whenever I was remotely within reaching distance. What I think she really meant was, "I have an unmarried son. He is unemployed and doing nothing worthwhile. Please wed him, get him a green card and get him out of my house."
Split is truly a fantastic place; the general atmosphere is that of a bustling serenity. (If that makes sense.) The city's main claim to fame is that it boasts one of the largest and most intact Roman ruins, Diocletian's Palace, which most of the town is centered around. The city itself is nestled between the coast and a long stretch of hills, which glow in pinkish hues under the setting sun. In the main square the streets and buildings, all of white marble, look like a confectionery fantasy.
There was a crazy football (soccer) match in Split yesterday: Croatia v. Brazil. I actually tried to buy a ticket, but they were completely sold out; however, I was able to catch a bit of the game on the television in the main square. Soccer seems like it is more fun than football (which is brutal) and baseball (which is boring). Nearly everyone was drunk by noon, so it made for an interesting day.
Today I hung out on the beach, where I could probably be considered the paradigm of uncoolness for wearing a watch and repeatedly slathering SPF45 all over my albino self. This brings to mind two things worth mentioning:
1. A few other backpackers have implied that I am too 'uptight' for wearing a watch. Perhaps this is true, but I would prefer to be uptight and make it on my intended bus/train/plane. However, wearing it to the beach is probably a little extreme.
2. My sunscreen smells like candy. It kind of makes me want to eat it, but I won't. I know it would taste yucky.
That's all I have to say for now.
Thursday, August 18, 2005
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